TCB TCB Seamen trousers

TCB Seamens trousers – update 1

Fade update: Time for a TCB Seamens trousers update, the perfect summer denim, after some wear.

I don’t like shorts. I really don’t. A friend of mine used to say it’s for kids, postmen or hanging at the beach. I pretty much agree and barely ever put on shorts in the city.

TCB Seamens trousers front 6 months of wear
TCB Seamens trousers back 6 months of wear

Breathable TCB Seamens trousers

So instead there’s a need for breathable pants and you know, I do like denim so why not get both in the same pair of pants? The TCB Seamens trousers is an integral part of my summer wardrobe ever since I got them back in 2018 from Göteborg Manufaktur.

The loose cut takes its time to fade but I don’t really mind. The neppy fabric is gorgeous so I’m enjoying that part of the journey while I can.

The images are a tad old when this post hits, shot late in July after a recent wash. At least it will give you a hint of what’s happening for the last two years.

If I have to guess they probably have around 6 months of wear by now. Maybe more, maybe less. Who’s counting?

Soon they will be stored away again, paving way for the fall rotation. But I’ll definitely jump back into them next year when the summer hits.

TCB Seamens trousers topblock 6 months of wear
TCB Seamens trousers pocket 6 months of wear
TCB stencile and backpocket, 6 months of wear
TCB TCB 30's jacket

TCB 30’s jacket – update 1

Another wash for my TCB 30’s jacket means it is time for update 1. The contrasts have settled nicely since I got it, much thanks to the tighter sleeves compared to my other jackets.

tcb 30's jacket front
tcb 30's jacket back

I don’t want it to get out of hand, so from now on it will be treated with more frequent washing. Since the jacket uses the same fabric as my TCB 20’s, I already know that it keeps its indigo quite well. Washing won’t be an issue. It will even thrive from it, showcasing that wonderful marbling texture.

TCB 30's whiskers

Marbling fabric

What made TCB 20’s one of my favorite jeans I’ve come across so far is the fabulous fabric. The marbling you get from frequent washing is a real treat for the eye. Now it is starting to show on the jacket as well. With time it might even challenge the XX-fabric on my Denime 506.

tcb 30's patches
tcb 30's jacket pocket

Patch and button evolution

If I’m not mistaken, I’ve washed the TCB 30’s jacket three times now. The iron buttons have barely begun to rust. But the leather patch is almost a goner. Still somewhat supple but the print is nowhere to be found. Just like it should be!

tcb 30's jacket leather patch
tcb 30's jacket cinch
tcb 30's jacket sleeve

Well, that’s the end for update 1 on my TCB 30’s jacket. More updates to come next spring.

If you are looking for a classic style denim jacket, but want a little longer body length and tighter sleeves I couldn’t recommend this enough. Go fetch yourself one straight from the guys at TCB Jeans. It’s much easier now that they’ve hired an English speaking employee.

TCB TCB 20's

TCB 20’s contest jeans – update 3

Final update for the TCB 20’s contest. It’s been a blast and I don’t think it’s a stretch to say that they turned out very, very well. As did so many other pairs. Check out the final submissions thread if you’re looking for more reasons to get a pair of TCB 20’s!

TCB 20's topblock front

Like I have mentioned before, the fabric Inoue-san used for these jeans and the TCB 30’s jacket is so swell. The light weight of it makes it very comfy, but not too light to wear during the winter here in Sweden (at least as an office warrior). But that’s only one of the many good points:

  • The vertical falling is well balanced
  • The indigo holds on well
  • Lots of marbling, even with pretty irregular washing
  • The different fabric used for the beltloops gives a neat contrast
  • The wide white selvedge-ID is probably my favorite one
TCB 20s front
TCB 20s back

End of the contest

So, after 18 months the contest is officially over. Compared to earlier contests I’ve participated in, I’ve probably worn these the hardest. If I had to guess, I’d say these have about 15 months of actual wear in them.

I’ve got no clue anymore about the number of washes. They were a little sparse at the beginning. Waiting about five months for the first one.

But at the end it was a lot more frequent. More like every 2-3 weeks. Don’t be afraid to wash your jeans. They will turn out great any way.

TCB 20's coinpocket
TCB 20's top button

TCB 20’s – signs of wear and tear

At the end of the contest the jeans have to no surprise started to show more wear and tear all over the place. Not as much as I thought, but I suppose that’s not a bad thing. Now I can wear them for a long time still!

tcb 20's topblock back
tcb 20s cinchback
The cinch keeping it in place
Leather patch
Back yoke tearing up

I’ll leave you with TCB’s famous roping and the thick selvedge-ID I love so much.

TCB jeans famous roping
tcb 20s selvedge
TCB TCB 30's jacket

TCB 30’s jacket

There’s nothing that beats Levi’s classic 506XX in my book and TCB Jeans interpretation don’t mess around. I’ve had my TCB 30’s jacket for a little over a year now since getting it from Göteborg Manufaktur. Now it’s really starting to take off.

TCB 30's jacket front
TCB 30's jacket back

For the 506XX repro Inoue-san used the same denim as for the TCB 20’s, the interpretation of 501’s from the 1920’s. A fabulous 12,5 oz fabric made of Memphis cotton. The lighter weight fabric makes it my top choice of summer jacket since my other denim jackets are slightly heavier.

Curious of how the fabric fades? Check out the latest update of my TCB 20’s. Since it’s using the same fabric you will get a hint. I got the jacket and jeans around the same time, but have washed the jeans countless times by now while the jacket has been washed four times during the past year of wear.

Update: Or even better, check out how the TCB 30’s jacket looks now after some more wear and washes.

The fit

Like TCB Jeans’ other jackets the 30’s jacket has a longer body than the original and slimmed sleeves. Perhaps not to everyones liking but I think it makes the jacket a great addition to a collection of denim jackets, giving me a more modern fit to turn to when I want it.

Fit picture of TCB 30's jacket

Details of TCB 30’s jacket

The jacket has some nice little details. From size 40 and up they use the T-back construction. If I’m not mistaken this construction was traditionally used on larger sizes because it left less waste of fabric when it was cut. The TCB 30’s jacket also rocks nice iron buttons that will rust with age and add great patina to the garment. Of course you’ll also have a cinchback since it’s a repro of the 506XX.

Wondering who made the custom patches on my jacket? Check out s.y.norrman on Instagram, embroideries done by Olof that runs Göteborg Manufaktur.

TCB 30's jacket cinchback
Rusty iron buttons
TCB 30's jacket patch
TCB TCB 20's

TCB 20’s contest jeans – update 2

Vacation have slowed down the posting a bit, soon there’ll be more pace again. But here’s a quick update on my TCB 20’s contest jeans after another wash or two back in June. Some three months left now of the contest and they’re getting washed every two-three weeks now. Love these even more than the sample from the world tour!

Update: Head over here to see how the TCB 20’s ended up after 18 months of wear. 

TCB 20's june 2019
TCB 20's june 2019
TCB 20's june 2019
TCB 20's cinchback june 2019
TCB 20's patch june 2019
TCB TCB Seamen trousers

TCB Seamens Trousers

Looking for the perfect summer jeans? Look no further than TCB Seamens Trousers. There’s no hiding my TCB fanboyism. Ever since I picked up my pair of TCB 50’s I’ve been part of the cult following of Inoue-san’s work. His work with repros of American workwear is right up my alley and when my dear friends at Göteborg Manufaktur got the Seamens Trousers last summer I had to try them on. It was an instant love story.

The TCB Seamens Trousers is a reproduction of USN Navy deck pants from the 1940’s that Inoue-san has in his collection. A really wide pair of pants, with even higher waist and super neppy and hairy 10 oz fabric. The perfect pair for summer pants and a denim classic.

Best part about it is definitely the fabric. First and foremost the light weight combined with the wide fit makes it ideal for summer wear. Then you have the crazy neppy and hairy texture that one can stare at for a long time. My Evisu No.1 jeans are the only pair that comes even close to this hairiness. Can’t wait to see how the fabric evolves with wear and what I will like about it then.

TCB Seaman trousers front
TCB Seaman trousers back

Details to love with the Seamens trousers

There’s three details that I enjoy the most: The stenciled logo and size over the right backpocket, the slash frontpockets and the US Navy buttons. Low key stuff. It doesn’t need to be more complicated than this. Just let the fabric speak for itself. I mean, have you even seen Inoue-sans own wickedly worn-in pair?

Not like I’m close to Inoue-san’s pair but there’s an update on my TCB Seamens trousers to see and I like how they are coming along.

Then again, there’s more details to enjoy. The felled seams and square-shaped backpockets that you can hardly see at first because there’s no contrast stitching what so ever. Lovely little details that makes this hobby worthwhile.

TCB Seaman trousers topblock back
TCB Seaman trousers topblock
TCB Seaman trousers pocket
TCB Seaman trousers buttons
TCB Seaman trousers inseam
No selvedge on this one
TCB TCB 20's

TCB 20’s contest jeans – update 1

A year has gone of the TCB 20’s contest after the reboot. And boy are we seeing some great looking jeans. Check out the contest thread if you haven’t. I really really like the 50’s denim Inoue-san and his crew makes but man, I think he surpassed himself when he made the fabric which he uses on the TCB 20’s contest jeans and his type I-jacket. Loads of character, a nice more lightweight denim that suits a reproduction of Levi’s from the 20’s.

Since I was neglecting the blog for so long, there’s been a ton of little updates on the progress of my TCB 20’s contest jeans. Not gonna post them all, but you can find them over on my Instagram. I’ll just leave you with the latest update for now with something like a year of wear and 4-5 washes.

Best part of the TCB 20’s contest jeans?

A year of wear now. And I love them. But what is the best parts?

The fabric plays a really big part of course. I mentioned it at the start of the post but this hits the nail for me. Lots of marbling, vertical falling that is not too pushy and so so soft. It has character but doesn’t brag about it. Class act.

The iron buttons are also starting to shine more and more. Or less, might be more accurate. They are beginning to rust, adding another layer of patina to the jeans.

I’m also a big fan of the desintigrating arcurate stitches. The joy of Inoue-sans cats ear-stitches works best when they’re coming apart.

Update: Head over here to see how the TCB 20’s ended up after 18 months of wear. 

Not much left of the cat ear arcurates
TCB TCB 20's

TCB 20’s contest jeans

Hello TCB 20’s specials!

TCB TCB 20's

TCB 20’s World Tour

TCB 20’s prototype traveling around the globe

TCB TCB 50's

TCB 50’s – update 7

TCB 50’s contest final pictures

TCB TCB ranchman

TCB ranchman shirt

TCBs replica of a vintage Levi’s shirt

TCB TCB chore coat

TCB chore coat

A lovely duck chore coat from TCB Jeans