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Denimbridge

Denimbridge S Antique

There’s no hiding I like what Shingo-san does with his brand Denimbridge. So when the chance presented itself to have a custom pair made by Shingo-san himself I had to give it a go. He calls the model Denimbridge S Antique.

I met Shingo-san way back in 2017 in Tokyo. We talked a lot about denim, which I suppose don’t come as a big surprise. Partly we spoke of his latest model, the S Antique, a wide straight model that Shingo sews himself in his workshop in Saitama. All single stitch goodness. You choose the details yourself: buttons, cinch, single or double stitched beltloops and of course also fabric. When I got home from the trip I wrote down the details I gunned for and shot Shingo-san an email. I also did a short interview with Shingo-san if you’ve missed that one.

Denimbridge S Antique
Denimbridge S Antique

Denimbridge S Antique – the fabric

For my pair of Denimbridge S Antique, I went with the second fabric Shingo-san had gotten his hands on, a deadstock 14 oz fabric that is very dark and soft to the touch. Shingo-san had found a large roll in a warehouse. Sadly he doesn’t know where it comes from and will only last until he runs out. Then it is finito, as far as I can remember.

I like it a lot so far, though I’m very intrigued by how it will change after the first wash. With this pair I decided to go again my usual washing regime and only soak it at first, so I’m sure there will be big changes. It bleeds like hell for now. No white tees with this pair.

Denimbridge S Antique coinpocket
Denimbridge S Antique selvedge

The hardware

I had a harder time with the hardware choices. When I was due with my order I had gotten slightly into black coated buttons. Not my favorite back then. It still isn’t, but felt like a fun idea to make this pair even more unique in my little collection. So black it was, for the top button, suspender buttons and also the cinch buckle.

Denimbridge SA topblock front
Denimbridge SA buttons
denimbridge SA rivets

To go with the black buttons I chose brownish rivets which I think works well together with the black buttons. The S Antique is somewhat of a 20’s cut rocks with visible rivets on the backpockets and a crotch rivet.

Denimbridge SA cinch

Except choosing fabric, deciding on what kind of cinch buckle I wanted was probably the most fun decision. From my other pairs I’m used to ones with prongs that keeps the cinch in place. This time however I opted for a rounded buckle, which quite frankly has been somewhat useless. Instead I’m going full Inoue-san when I wear my pair and just keeps the cinch open, dangling around.

Denimbridge SA topblock back
Denimbridge SA seams
Felled seams, yummie!

Go fetch a pair of Denimbridge S Antique

In this saturated denim market that we have there’s plenty of “unique” jeans out there. But if you are looking for something different, made by a small denim brand, singlehandedly made by the owner himself, felled seams and all, I would definitely recommend giving Denimbridge S Antique a shot.

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Denimbridge Sidetracks

Interview: Shingo Oosawa of Denimbridge

A meeting about when enthusiasm grows into something more

Me and my friend is standing in the shade outside of Harajuku station in early september, it is still hot in Tokyo and Harajuku is busy like always. We’re waiting on Shingo Oosawa of Denimbridge fame and master denimblogger running Denimba.com, to arrive from his home in Saitama, little over an hour long train ride away.

We’ve been chatting a bit back and forth during my trip across Japan and I am thoroughly looking forward to meeting the man behind one of my favourite brands. Just before catching up I realised that I had never seen an actual picture of Shingo-san; for him it is all about the denim.

But even though we’re in Harajuku, not far away from denim heaven like Marvin’s and Berberjin it wasn’t very hard to spot Shingo-san walking towards us in the crowd. Wearing his Denimbridge lot.3 jeans, an indigo wabash cap, carrying a massive black backpack and a huge smile on his face he greets us.

Jeans workshop
Denimbridge 2nd CR in the making

Jeans workshop
Denimbridge 2nd CR in the making

A  bag full of jeans

I’ve always loved the fact that all of us have a relationship to jeans. Some of us fell in love with it so much that we wanted to share and spread or love and knowledge of denim. Posting on forums and starting blogs. Shingo Oosawa is one of us, running the Japanese denim blog denimba.com since 2008.

We take a walk into Yoyogi park to find ourselves a place in the shade to chill, chat and have a look at all the faded jeans Shingo-san brought with like a denim version of Santa Claus.

Old, old pairs of Warehouse and Sugar Cane that he beat to a pulp doing manual labor in the harbor. And of course a couple of pairs of Denimbridge jeans. Including the Frankenstein version using two different denims to determine which one faded the best and then to be used for the official first run of Denimbridge jeans.

Denimba – sharing is caring

Wanting to convey how beautiful faded denim is, the blog Denimba was born. On Denimba we get to see not only his own jeans from working hard in the harbor. There is also faded jeans from lots of other denim nerds sending him pictures of their jeans.
– Denimba is short for denim-baka. Baka means nerd in Japanese, Shingo-san says and laughs out loud. Perfectly fitting for a blog completely crammed with faded pairs of jeans.

Shingo-san grew up in Saitama outside of Tokyo and first encountered raw denim in 1995 when he got a pair of Lee 200. Then he was hooked:
– It changed to a beautiful blue and I was impressed by the fades, Shingo-san explains. The aging of the jeans is still what he enjoys the most. How it starts out flat, changes its expression with wear and continue doing so.

The Denimbridge S Antique jeans

After a while we talk about the the S Antique jeans that Shingo-san brought with him. Unlike the earlier lots which have been made by either Yamaguti-san from Hands-on or Kuniyoshi-san of Double Volante fame, the S Antique jeans are made by Shingo-san himself in Saitama.

All done with single stitch construction. Shingo-san uses one machine and it takes about 20 hours to make one pair. A full on pair made by Shingo Oosawa of Denimbridge, something for the collection for sure!

Denimbridge S Antique suspender buttons
Denimbridge S Antique in the making

Denimbridge S Antique patch
Denimbridge S Antique in the making

The next step for Shingo Oosawa and Denimbridge

It might not come as a surprise that Denimbridge was born out of the same idea as Denimba: proclaiming the wonders of faded jeans.
– It all started when I met Yamaguti-san. He owns a denim repair workshop called Hands-on in Kojima. Yamaguti-san has a great knowledge about jeans; be it sewing, fabrics, buttons or washing, says Shingo-san.
In 2014 the brand was born and have since produced four different models.

For the first three models of Denimbridge jeans the same fabric was used: a 13,5 oz 7×7 denim made by Shinya Mills. Using Memphis cotton in a time when Zimbabwean cotton was the buzz. But the Zimbabwean cotton didn’t have the characteristics that Shingo-san was after.
– I chose Memphis cotton because it has the right amount of ”hardness”. For example, Zimbabwean cotton is too soft for my liking, Shingo-san explains.
Since the start of 2017 however, Denimbridge also uses a deadstock 14 oz 7×7 denim that Shingo-san got his hands on. For the S Antique jeans you can choose the fabric yourself. They look quite alike at first sight but the 14 oz fabric has a slightly tighter weave giving of a darker vibe.

Fuglen, Toyko

Looking for a new workshop

We went for a walk and grabbed a cold brew coffee at Fuglen. Keeping the late Tokyo summer heat at bay, talking about what the future has in store for Shingo-san and his young denim brand. At the moment he is looking for a new workshop in Saitama. But it is not so easy to find a good one floor workshop. The dream is to work full-time with Denimbridge but right now Shingo-san does sewing for another non-denim related company to keep afloat and support his family. At least he doesn’t work in the harbor anymore. One step closer to living his dream.

It’s very apparent how much Shingo-san loves denim. It almost feels infinite. I am thoroughly looking forward to following the journey of Shingo Oosawa’s Denimbridge and how it will evolve with all the geeky knowledge he has. Right now Denimbridge offers three different models. 3rd is a narrow straight, 2nd CR and S Antique are wide straights.
– For the next project I want to make a middle straight model, Shingo-san says with a smile.

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Denimbridge Denimbridge lot.2

Denimbridge 2nd – Update 1

4-5 months later, first wash

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Denimbridge Denimbridge lot.2

Denimbridge 2nd

Product of a japanese denim fiend