Finally, the Indigo Veins x Göteborg Manufaktur x Denim Base collab jeans GBG001 are here! Like I mentioned a few weeks ago I’ve designed my very own jeans together with my good friends at Göteborg Manufaktur and Shingo Oosawa that runs Denimbridge and now also has the brand Denim Base together with Kuniyoshi-san of Double Volante fame.
A trip to Tokyo in 2017 paved the way for the endeavour. During the trip I got to know Shingo Oosawa, founder of the small scale denim brand Denimbridge. A few months later the project was set into motion and the planning started for the new partnership with Göteborg Manufaktur, Indigo Veins and Shingo’s new brand Denim-Base. Denim-Base in turn is a brand Shingo-san runs together with Kuniyoshi-san, mostly known for his own one man-brand Double Volante and sewing of Studio D’Artisan’s Champloo series, and Kana-san that runs denim brand El Canek.
The jeans are made by small family businesses all the way, from the dyeing factory in Hiroshima to Kuniyoshi-san that sew all the jeans himself on Okinawa, is also an important piece of the puzzle that connects Japanese heritage and craftsmanship.
A big source of inspiration was jeans of the 60’s. It’s a smart fit with a mid high waist, enough room in the thighs but still drapes down in a nice way giving the jeans a slim look.
All of us love vintage details but we never set out to make a 100 % reproduction. We’ve taken the details we love and thought could work well together in order to make a modern pair of jeans that still has the essence of times past. For instance the jeans feature olive herringbone pocket fabrics, something you found during the 40’s, spade pockets inspired by Lee’s backpockets in the 40’s and the lack of hidden rivets and a paper patch stems from the 60’s.
There are many geeky details on this pair. For starters the 14 oz fabric is woven in Okayama by the Yamaashi mill on a Toyoda shuttle loom. It’s a unsanforized (loomstate) fabric which Shingo strived to get as close as possible to the vintage vibes of old Cone denim and developed exlusively for his brand. A tightly woven twill made of blended American cotton that still produces the vertical falling you see on for example vintage Levi’s. At first it looks even but once washed the fabric crocks and you get more texture from the warp threads that pops.
Another geeky detail are the very light pink selvedge-ID. The ID is not located in the same place on both ends; on one end it is in the center and on the other one it is dead close to the indigo threads, something that in rare cases was found on vintage jeans.
For the pocketbags we went with an olive herringbone fabric. My very favorite of all the different materials that were used during the 1940’s when companies had to use whatever was at hand.
They will also rock specially made Denim Base top buttons made of iron and copper rivets.
One of my favorite tiny details is the coinpocket. Instead of the usual shape we went with a small spade pocket, much like the backpockets. Something no one will notice except the wearer himself.
The paper patch
The jeans feature a specially designed paper patch with the harbor cranes from Gothenburg. The design choice has a deeper meaning with Gothenburg having Swedens largest harbor, connecting us with the rest of the world, much like a bridge and what Shingo-san wants to accomplish with his brand Denimbridge.
All the way back to the early 18th century trade ships travelled the globe to Asia before returning to the harbor of Gothenburg. For Japan, the trading between the countries began in 1886. So for us it makes sense with Gothenburgs historical connections to Japan and our harbor.
Where to kop?
If you want a pair for yourself, the pre-order is up via Göteborg Manufaktur. Hopefully you’ll like them as much as we do, because I can’t think of anything I would like to do differently!