Indigo Veins collab jeans

Finally, the Indigo Veins x Göteborg Manufaktur x Denim Base collab jeans GBG001 are here! Like I mentioned a few weeks ago I’ve designed my very own jeans together with my good friends at Göteborg Manufaktur and Shingo Oosawa that runs Denimbridge and now also has the brand Denim Base together with Kuniyoshi-san of Double Volante fame.

A trip to Tokyo in 2017 paved the way for the endeavour. During the trip I got to know Shingo Oosawa, founder of the small scale denim brand Denimbridge. A few months later the project was set into motion and the planning started for the new partnership with Göteborg Manufaktur, Indigo Veins and Shingo’s new brand Denim-Base. Denim-Base in turn is a brand Shingo-san runs together with Kuniyoshi-san, mostly known for his own one man-brand Double Volante and sewing of Studio D’Artisan’s Champloo series, and Kana-san that runs denim brand El Canek.

The jeans are made by small family businesses all the way, from the dyeing factory in Hiroshima to Kuniyoshi-san that sew all the jeans himself on Okinawa, is also an important piece of the puzzle that connects Japanese heritage and craftsmanship.

Olof and Alex wearing the new GBG001 jeans
Cool kids on the block with GBG001 jeans. One pair worn in, one pair newly washed

The inspiration

A big source of inspiration was jeans of the 60’s. It’s a smart fit with a mid high waist, enough room in the thighs but still drapes down in a nice way giving the jeans a slim look.

All of us love vintage details but we never set out to make a 100 % reproduction. We’ve taken the details we love and thought could work well together in order to make a modern pair of jeans that still has the essence of times past. For instance the jeans feature olive herringbone pocket fabrics, something you found during the 40’s, spade pockets inspired by Lee’s backpockets in the 40’s and the lack of hidden rivets and a paper patch stems from the 60’s.

The fabric is woven on a Toyoda shuttle loom by Yamaashi mill in Okayama
The fabric is woven on a Toyoda shuttle loom by Yamaashi mill in Okayama

The details

There are many geeky details on this pair. For starters the 14 oz fabric is woven in Okayama by the Yamaashi mill on a Toyoda shuttle loom. It’s a unsanforized (loomstate) fabric which Shingo strived to get as close as possible to the vintage vibes of old Cone denim and developed exlusively for his brand. A tightly woven twill made of blended American cotton that still produces the vertical falling you see on for example vintage Levi’s. At first it looks even but once washed the fabric crocks and you get more texture from the warp threads that pops.  

The special 14 oz denim fabric being woven
The special 14 oz denim fabric being woven
The GBG001 jeans in all its glory
The GBG001 in all its glory
Backside of the GBG001 jeans
Backside of the GBG001 jeans

Another geeky detail are the very light pink selvedge-ID. The ID is not located in the same place on both ends; on one end it is in the center and on the other one it is dead close to the indigo threads, something that in rare cases was found on vintage jeans.

Mismatched selvedge-ID
Mismatched selvedge-ID

For the pocketbags we went with an olive herringbone fabric. My very favorite of all the different materials that were used during the 1940’s when companies had to use whatever was at hand.

Olive herringbone pocketbags
Olive herringbone pocketbags

They will also rock specially made Denim Base top buttons made of iron and copper rivets.

Specially made iron buttons
Specially made iron buttons

One of my favorite tiny details is the coinpocket. Instead of the usual shape we went with a small spade pocket, much like the backpockets. Something no one will notice except the wearer himself.

Spade shaped coinpocket
Spade shaped coinpocket
Patch from collab jeans with Göteborg Manufaktura and Denim-Base
The paper patch of GBG001

The paper patch

The jeans feature a specially designed paper patch with the harbor cranes from Gothenburg. The design choice has a deeper meaning with Gothenburg having Swedens largest harbor, connecting us with the rest of the world, much like a bridge and what Shingo-san wants to accomplish with his brand Denimbridge.

All the way back to the early 18th century trade ships travelled the globe to Asia before returning to the harbor of Gothenburg. For Japan, the trading between the countries began in 1886. So for us it makes sense with Gothenburgs historical connections to Japan and our harbor.

GBG001 jeans
Enjoying the sun and new jeans

Where to kop?

If you want a pair for yourself, the pre-order is up via Göteborg Manufaktur. Hopefully you’ll like them as much as we do, because I can’t think of anything I would like to do differently!


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

*